Chanderi in M.P., India is traditionally the home of the famed Chanderi sarees, known for the stylistic Bootis and extraordinary threadwork on fine weaves in silk and cotton. With plain to moderately adorned patterns or motifs and small but attractive coloured borders and exquisite pallus with some adornment, Chanderi sarees have been popular for the extremely fine texture and sheer quality. The entry of the Chanderi Saree in its new avatar of fusion Sicos (blends in silk and fine cotton) has again sparked fresh interest in a fabric that since traditional times has never ceased to amaze.
Enhancing the beauty further is the ‘Booti’, ‘Butti’ or motif, which is an interlaced, hand-woven, shape, consisting of gold, silver or copper coated threads. The Asharfi Butti, or Gold Coin shaped Booti has been a popular choice since earlier times, though the pure gold or silver used in its making has given way to tested Zari, which is woven from synthetic yarn by needles of different sizes. The bigger version of the ‘Butti’ is popularly known as ‘Butta’.
A major difference in the making methods is that the ‘Bootis’ of hand-woven Chanderi saris, retain their shape and appearance throughout the life of the fabric, with no thread coming out from the ‘Butti’ structure. Buttis once only hand-woven on the fabric, have been replaced by gold-printed ‘Butti’prints on the silk fabric body.
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