Bandhani or Bandhni or Bandhej, a highly-skilled process involving the Tie-Dye method, has the base fabric first tied at several points by threads and then the threads are dyed. The manner in which the tying is done decides the resulting pattern, which could be Leheriya, Mothra, Ekdali or Shikari. Patterns which emerge are generally dots, strips, waves or squares. Fabrics like Bandhani sarees are made of cotton, silk, crepe, georgette, chiffon, satin, supernet or such. Dark Colours employed for dyeing the ‘Bandhini’ could be natural or artificial. Principally applied colours being red, green, blue, black or yellow, the background is generally red or black.
The Khatri community of Kutch in Gujarat is known to excel in this art. Works like, tying of thousands of miniscule knots on the Bhandhani fabric that spread and form exquisite designs on opening after the dyeing process, speak volumes for their skill. Bhuj, Mandvi in Kutch and Saurashtra in , India, are known for their individual varieties in Bhandhani sarees. again has its own style of Bandhani, unique to its region. Designs and colours differ, with significance attached to certain colours. Red conveys a newly married bride, yellow for a recently become mother, are typical examples. There is a special attraction to the Leheria Bandhej sarees in the Bandhini range known for their unique wave designs, evolving from a brilliant exercise of the tie and dye art that has created waves in the fashion world for the simplicity and appealing look on plain coloured fabrics. is done on silk or cotton fabric and on long and broad canvases like turbans and sarees.
The process of getting the unique Leheria saree involves rolling the fabric and tying resists at various spots on the cloth and then rolled diagonally from one corner to the opposite selvage. This rolled fabric is then dyed according to the usual tie and dye process in bright colours. When the fabric is unfolded after dyeing, it leaves a lot of stripes or other shapes at intervals across the fabric in a design. Several tie and dye processes are undergone if required, to create a myriad of colourful stripes across the fabric length. Indigo is used in the last few stages of the process. Mothara is a special ‘lentil design’, popular and achieved by the re-rolling of the unfolded first stage in the opposite direction and the resist tied at the diagonal end and repeating the dye process. The resulting checkered design has un-dyed areas at regular intervals which are the size of a lentil.
has a wide and creative range of Bandhini sarees online. The deep vibrant colours of the Bandhani Georgette saris, the charismatic allure of the motif-rich crepe silk bandhani saree with zari patch borders, the panoramic neons of Bhandani, the bright hues of the Jaipuri Bhandini with their mesemerising and the extraordinary crepe satin silk bhandani with exquisite embroidery. Designer Bandhani sarees online from an extraordinary application of this fine art have made the Bhandani sari a popular variety India wide and appreciated overseas also.
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