The Kota Sarees are an ethnic contribution to fashion lovers throughout the world displaying the extraordinary combination of Skill, Effort and Patience that go into their making.
The Kota Saree or the Kota Doria, as it is also known as, is a work of pure silk and cotton. Popularly known as 'Masuria' in Kota and KotaDoria (Doria means thread), outside of Rajasthan, Kota Sarees are primarily made in Kota, Rajasthan, and Mau, Uttar Pradesh.
Kota sarees are also called Masuria because they were once woven in Mysore. The weavers migrated to Kaithoon, near Kota, and the sarees came to be known as 'Kota-Masuria'.
The Saree is woven on a traditional pit loom designed to produce check patterns on the fabric. The square shaped checks are known as Khats. They are smeared with onion juice and rice paste to make the yarn strong and durable.
The Kota Doria weave employs the warp and the weft in a special combination of cotton and silk threads. While the cotton threads provide the binding strength, the silk threads together lend lustre to the fabric.
Cotton for the Kota Saree comes from Madhya Pradesh while the silk, which once came from Karnataka, is now imported from Korea.
The standard Kota Doria Saree is woven in white and later dyed in different colours. In the case of saris with designs, the threads are dyed prior to weaving.
For the sake of economy, cost-wise and in effort, weavers take up three Sarees of the same design at a time. The setting-up of the threads is both complicated and time-consuming and could take up to a day. More complicated be the design, more would be the time taken for its setting-up. It takes close to a week to complete three saris in the basic pattern.
Weaving is done mostly by women, while the dyeing of threads is taken care of by men. The dyed thread is obtained by the weavers themselves or through wholesale dealers, who are also willing to buy the finished product.
Rajasthan Handloom Development Corporation (RHDC) has encouraged Kota Doria. Not only as a market for the finished products but also in seeing to the introduction of policies helpful to the cause of ethnic fabrics. An all-silk saree on the Masuria handlooms is their joint effort with the weavers.
Various permutations and combinations of the silk and cotton threads, produce unique and complicated designs.
The Kota Cotton Saree is translucent muslin, preferred for its light weight, softness and airy comfort.
Pure Cotton with golden Zari threads woven in square patterns is a popular variety. Variations in borders and a whole array of bright colours and shades like pink, blue, saffron, orange etc. applied to traditional prints and beautiful embroidery work create stunning effects.
A refreshing change is the Rajasthani Kota Saree woven by coarse cotton or golden threads with zari border and is preferred wear for daily casual, corporate offices, colleges and family get-togethers.
Stylish block floral or geometrical prints on the kota cotton sari with zari temple border is lovely attire for corporate conferences, college meetings and traditional occasions.
Designer Kota Supernet Saree adorned by zari flower work and having zari brocade border with elegant pallu is choice wear for weddings, bridal attire, corporate office parties, college events.
The Masuria Silks are grand affairs of pure silk, gold and silver threads or Zari. The Katan Pure Silk Weaves are adorned with beautiful Jaipuri prints, traditional motifs, fancy zari or printed borders, exquisite embroidery work on the pallu, making them an exclusive must-have.
Other worthy creations are designer Kota Katan Silk Saree richly woven in Meena work and with suitable accompaniments and the Dabu block prints on Stylish Kota Sari for formal conferences and meets and change wear for college events and outings.
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